Travel Adventures for Grown-Ups
 Boston Harbor Islands - Boston, MA                                          
Info:       

Boston Harbor Islands
National Park Service
408 Atlantic Ave.
Suite 228
Boston MA 02110-3350

Web:
www.bostonislands.org
www.nps.gov/boha/
index.htm

Phone:
617-223-8666

Boston by Boat

Web:
www.bostonbyboat.com
 The Boston Harbor Islands                                       

by Sean Mulready
photos by Mitch Kaplan

The Boston Harbor Islands have been farmed, fished, fortified and  buried in rubbish since Europeans came here nearly four centuries ago.

Now, an alliance of several private and governmental agencies oversees this collection—34 islands and peninsulas comprising miles of coastline in and around the city—New England’s newest entry into the National Park System

Despite all the past abuse, and the difficulty of restoring so much property, the Harbor Islands have shown some remarkable progress of late.

 First Stop                                  

Spectacle Island, once a stinking pile of rubbish and, prior to that, an even more odorous horse-rendering plant, now has a state-of-the-art marina in front of a bright, airy visitors center.

Clean bathrooms and some drinking water would have been enough to make most harbor users celebrate, but this reformed island offers much more.

The hiking trail to the taller of the island’s two hills brings you to the highest point in the harbor, with 360 degree views of the city, the other islands and the nearby towns of the north and south shores.

Visitors enjoying the picnic grounds in the open field at the top, or just stopping to sit at several of the strategically located benches, probably don’t realize that they’re sitting upon millions of pounds of dirt from the infamous Big Dig project.

In summer, boaters come here for weekly jazz concerts or for clambakes arranged by the staff of Jasper White, one of the city’s most noted chefs. At any time, boaters can book moorings on Spectacle Island, or access the island by ferries from Quincy, Hingham or Boston.

 Island Hopping                                 

From here, riders can use a free ferry to get to nearby George’s Island. While Spectacle has the Harbor Island’s newest services, George’s offers one of the park's best preserved antiquities, Fort Warren.

The fort's impressive granite walls and ramparts were never breached by invaders, but visitors can walk over the moat and through the forts heavily fortified gate to see the interior parade grounds and wander through the massive gun implacements, which never had to fire a shot in anger. They did, however, inspire one of the island’s great legends, "The Lady in Black", and also hosted a young Edgar Allan Poe before his writing career began to flourish.

From George’s or Spectacle, a $3 ferry ticket will give you a chance to visit Bumpkin, Grape, Lovells or Peddocks Islands where park rangers will help you understand the history and ecology of these unique places.

Some of the islands even offer primitive camping for those who want to see the harbor in all its hours and from a perspective that few of the millions who live nearby ever get to see.

Ask about the "friendly" skunks on Grape, the rabbits of unusual size on Lovells, or the origin of the ruins on the north side of Bumpkin.

Each island has its stories, and staff can share their historical or environmental insights. Or they can just recommend some good places to cast for bass and blues early or late in the day.


                                    
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