Charleston, SC

Travel Adventures for Grown-Ups

Charleston, SC

Info

Charleston Visitor Center
375 Meeting St.
Charleston, SC 29403

Web:
www.charlestoncvb.com

Phone:
800-774-0006

Sweet Pursuits in Charleston, South Carolina

by Mitch Kaplan
photos by Mitch Kaplan

We could see Fort Sumter from the Charleston, South Carolina, shoreline. We just had to squint a bit.

Yep—there it was, a small, low-lying silhouette on the outskirts of the harbor.

There are many reasons to visit Charleston.

Great food.
Interesting museums.
Singular architecture.
Great golf nearby.
Minor league baseball.
Beaches.
A small but vibrant arts scene.
Some unique (and not so unique) shopping.

But, history itself is the most compelling reason to come. At least it is in the eyes of this history teacher’s son.

And, iconic Fort Sumter best embodies the scope of Charleston’s role in history.

We joined a Sumter-bound crowd that encompassed toddlers to seniors at Patriots Point. There, we studied the fort’s story as told in pictorial displays. The story was repeated in pictures at the fort itself; in a narrative broadcast during the boat to the fort; and during a brief introductory talk offered upon arrival by National Park Service Rangers.

In a nutshell, here's how Fort Sumter's story goes:

originally a British fortress, later a key Revolutionary War outpost;
a key coastal defense link during the War of 1812, the Spanish American War and even World Wars I and II;
and, of course, the place where the Civil War’s first shots were fired.

The Confederate Army needed just 34 hours to win the fort. The Union Army needed four years to take it back. We overran its grounds after a 15-minute boat ride.

We dispersed to redoubts laden with canon, and inner rooms filled with detailed descriptions of life and strife in the fort during different historic periods. While the military history was fine, it was the visual appeal—fantastic views of Charleston harbor busy with boat traffic—that won the day.

Hanging with the Fishes

Next door to the Fort Sumter boat dock at Patriot’s Point, stands the South Carolina Aquarium. We sashayed over.

Aquaria never get old. Or repetitive. No matter how many we’ve visited. I mean, what child (or adult, for that matter) gets tired of observing the odd-looking creatures harbored in the deep? Not to mention the cute ones. Or the ones with funny names, like the Spanish Hogfish.

This aquarium focuses on the region. The main hall is devoted to the Carolinas’ coast, and there are standing exhibits on the mountain waterways, the Piedmont and a salt marsh aviary.

Of course, there’s a touch tank, a most popular attraction with kids of all ages. Me, I like to stare in wonder at the jellyfish. (Did you know that moon-jellies have no brain?) And, people of all ages and sizes flock to the tanks to ogle sharks.

Speaking of ogling, we took a moment on the outdoor deck to

admire the Ravenel Bridge, with its modernist, spider web-like cables, and to watch the heavy ships heading in and out of port. Charleston, it turns out, operates the fourth largest container ship port in the U.S.

Who knew?

You can rent a bike at Patriot’s Point and peddle across the bridge. We thought to do that. Charleston’s a pretty bike-friendly city, but we went a-walking instead.

Stepping-Out

Charleston’s a great walking city, especially when you're lodging, as we did, right in the heart of things at a place like the Mills House Hotel. From there, walking distances aren’t that great between attractions, and the architecture stretches over the city’s full history.

Every block in the Historic District overflows with architectural interest, resulting in a fascinating collection of classic Georgian, Federal, Adamesque, Greek Revival, Italianate and Victorian buildings. It's all capped off (or bottomed-off?) by picturesque Waterfront Park at the city's south end.

And, then, there’s the Charleston "single house."

When I first saw one, I thought, "What the heck...?" The houses stand but a single-room wide and face sideways to the street.

Why?

The answer was supplied when we joined a Charleston Strolls walking tour. Tour leader Evelyn explained: Single houses were built sideways to better catch the summertime cross breezes in the days before air conditioning. The street door leads not indoors, but to a two-story, open piazza (or porch). From there, the inside is reached by a center hall.

More anecdotal historical information supplie

d by Evelyn included the city’s being founded on tenets of religious tolerance, and the fact that it was among the first cities to legislate historical buildings preservation.

If you're not given to long walks, a horse-drawn carriage tour is probably best. They're enormously popular. But, me, I don’t go for the horsey smell.

Museums

You can spend a lot of time in Charleston’s museums. We did. Themes run from history and maritime to art and even the U.S. Postal Service.

The Charleston Museum offers an excellent overview of local history, plus special art and crafts exhibits. Most males will no doubt like to check out the recreation of the H.L. Hunley, a sunk Civil War submarine that’s been recovered and is being restored nearby. Military buffs find the American Military Museum, with its paraphernalia and miniatures covering all America-involved wars, a must.

The Old Slave Mart Museum is a must-see. Small, it’s set in the building that served as a major slave trading market prior to Emancipation. Sobering? Yes. Edifying? To be sure. Just a few doors down from our hotel, we found the Gibbes Museum of Art, which holds more than 10,000 pieces in a permanent collection rich in regional significance. The changing exhibits encompass many styles and mediums.

To Market

Speaking of markets, you can’t really visit Charleston without stopping at the Old City Market. Stretching several blocks along South & North Market Streets, the old, brick-faced buildings, fronted by a columned Greek Revival head building, contains a panoply of stalls selling touristy souvenirs, trinkets, so-called collectibles, jewelry and beaut

iful, handmade sweetgrass baskets.

Frankly, much of the wares were no more remarkable than any local flea market. But, you’ve gotta love the atmosphere, and the sweetgrass basketry made it worthwhile.

Better, we thought, is the weekly Charleston Farmers’ Market staged on Saturdays from mid-April through November. Sure, there’s fresh produce on sale like any farmers’ market, but it’s also a great place to listen to music, eat lunch and discover great local crafts.

For a modern marketplace experience—and for those who must—King Street is rife with shopping of all kinds, from name brand chain stores to local artisans and even a doggy bakery.

Plantation Life

At some point it’s necessary to leave the city and tour a classic southern plantation.

Why?

Because plantation life defined not only the South, but all of America, economically and socially, during the country’s formative years.

The area holds four major plantations. The hard part is deciding which one(s) to visit. We chose Magnolia Plantation largely because it offers kid-friendly attractions—nature tours by tram and boat, and a petting zoo.

The tours travel through swamp, woods, farm fields and past old slave huts, with much information—both instructive and anecdotal—imparted along the way. Did you know that alligators can go for months without eating? They don’t eat at all in winter. Of course, that doesn’t mean you want to go swimming with them—even in February.

More background to plantation life was revealed during the the main house tour, while visually stunning scenes were revealed when we meandered through beautiful gardens, and explored a very cool Audubon Swamp Garden via a boardwalk walking path.

Chowin Down

No description of a Charleston visit would be complete without at least a brief mention of food. In word: wow.

Now, you must understand that I love southern food. Give me some grits and a catfish prepared in almost any manner and I'm smiling. Or barbecue? Oh yes. Toss in a "Lowcountry boil" (a.k.a., Frogmore Stew)—shrimp, sausage, potatoes, corn and spices simmered to perfection—and my grin becomes almost demonic.

And, yes, you can toss in some okra and collard greens, too.

But, here's the problem: downtown Charleston holds more than 120 restaurants. Obviously, a lifetime would be required to experience them all.

In our brief stay we sated ourselves at

Sticky Fingers (excellent ribs),
Pooga's Porch (super jambalaya and bread pudding),
and we discovered the unique Cupcake on King Street. Well, it was unique to us, anyway. We'd never seen a bake shop devoted solely to cupcakes—which come in innumerable flavors, but just nine varieties offered daily.

Sweet.

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