Info:      

Office du Tourisme de Morzine
Place Baraty
B.P. 23
74110 Morzine, France

Web:
www.morzine.com

Phone:
(+33) 04-50-74-72-72

E-mail:
info@morzine-avoriaz.com

Atout France -
The France Tourism Development Agency
825 Third Ave. 29th fl.
New York, NY 10022

Web:
www.franceguide.com

Phone:
514-288-1904
310-271-6665 (L.A.)
312-327-0290 (Chicago)

E-Mail:
info.us@franceguide .com

Le Petit Dru
74110 Morzine, France

Web:
www.petitdru.fr

Phone:
(+33) 04-50-75-77-33

E-Mail:
info@petitdru.fr

Rates:
from €89/day/double

Lift Tickets (Portes du Soleil):
Daily Adults - €35
5-day - €713

 Skiing France - Morzine                              

Small Town, Big Skiing

by Mitch Kaplan
photos by Mitch Kaplan

At first, Morzine doesn’t look like much, skiing-wise. From town, you see only a lift going up a modest hill on one side, and a gondola on the other side that disappears from view after ascending a short distance.

It’s the disappearing that counts.

Because small-town Morzine serves as the gateway to a ski region (or, "ski domain," as the French say) known as Portes du Soleil—Gateway to the Sun. The region contains 650 kilometers of groomed runs, an equal amount of off-piste, and it encompasses 12 individual ski areas, served by 194 lifts. It reaches into Switzerland.

It was raining in town when we arrived. But, that low-altitude rain morphed into high-elevation snow and, led by ski school director Thierry Copreau, we happily splashed for two days in off-piste powder.

Still, don’t let the big mountain skiing fool you. This is really a small town—just large enough to keep you busy, entertained and incredibly well fed. The town center, filled with alpine-style buildings half-timbered in dark brown with gingerbread trim, is walkable and lively. Apres-ski, it bustles with bistros, family activities and enough shops to lure Euros from your wallet.

 First Asleep—Then Bunking Down                              

I traveled to Morzine, a ninety-minute drive from Geneva, with a small group of writers under the guidance of Katherine, a colleague at Franceguide.com. We arrived jet-lagged and fighting to keep our eyes open.

Katherine immediately led us to L'eau Noire, the newest day spa in town. L'eau Noire— named for a local river that is reputed to run deep with health-giving black waters—is small. Two treatment rooms and two hi-tech water-massage rooms, plus a sauna, steam room, small pool and a Jacuzzi tub.

If the spa lacks size, the staff makes up for it. A sight for sore, jet-lagged eyes to be sure, and downright engaging. Using my pidgin French and Katherine's translation help, I made it to the treatment room. And promptly fell asleep on the massage table.

Wonderful.

We lodged at Le Petit Dru Hotel, a perfectly pleasant three-star affair perched on a ridge overlooking town. The room was European small but comfortable. A sliding glass door and balcony yielded a nice view of town. The hotel's facilities included a full-service restaurant, lobby foosball and pool tables, an indoor-outdoor pool, and an on-site nursery/day care.

Morzine lodging covers the full range. Nightlife and shopping lovers can reside in the heart of town. La Bergerie seemed particularly appealing. This family-friendly hotel is outfitted perfectly for families, with a heated outdoor pool, game room, hotel rooms with kitchenettes and, unique to me, a kids-only dining room with its own kids-only chef.

Among the myriad lodging choices, a few standouts include:

• L'Aiglon—an apartment hotel, steps from the gondola, the most luxurious, and newest in town
• Le Mas de la Coutettaz—also called The Farmhouse, an English owned table d'hote, with nine rooms and excellent mountain food.
• Auberge Le Vanant—rustic on the outside, but cozy, warm and welcoming inside with six rooms, table d'hote; 10 minutes drive from the town center, but transport is available.

 Food, Glorious Food                                  

Our first French Alps dinner was a multi-course, wine-assisted affair at La Chamade. We ate jambon cru, (a ham potpourri) which included porcelets (baby pork) with beijnets de pommes de terre (potato fritters), compote de girolles (mushrooms with sauce) and a condiments assortment that included beet chips. The dessert plate was large enough to feed all of us. They served three.

After Thierry exhausted us chasing powder on the first morning, we adjourned to lunch at Auberge Le Vanant. In an idyllic farm setting, we were plied with pre- and post-meal liqueurs, potatoes piled to the ceiling, and a pork/bacon/sausage dish that surfeited from just looking at it.

On Day Two, lured by fondue, we skied to Switzerland for lunch.

This required skiing from the Morzine ski area, over to the Avoriaz ski area, and across the border via ski lift to the Champery ski area. It took some time. It was worth it.

There, sitting on its own little ridge amidst a collection of small farm buildings, was Mac-Coq Altitude Restaurant. It doesn't get any better than skiing to a superb fondue served in a small rustic, wooden refuge, set high in the mountains, outfitted with a huge round fireplace, surrounded by snowfields and striking valley views.

Unfortunately, we didn’t stay in Morzine long enough to sample all the 94 on- and off-mountain eateries. But, completing that tour would be a good reason to go back

 Family Friendly                               

Morzine is particularly family-friendly. How many ski resorts operate a carousel in the town center? Or a mini-train to shuttle guests around town?

A Guide d'Animation is published weekly to publicize that week’s happenings in and around town. An official "family places" logo is printed in the calendar and at venues to indicate that those events are certified for family participation.

Got teens? Send ‘em over to one of the alcohol-free Teenager Soirees.
 
And the Skiing?                             

No sooner had we skied away from our first gondola ride, I was lost. But, Thierry showed the way. As with many huge European ski regions, it pays to ski with a guide. But, the resort does offer a Discovery Route Guide, showing 12 ski circuits sign-coded to different ability levels.

We were in search of powder, and so initially spent much time skiing through trees in Avoriaz. But, as much as was possible, Thierry was obligated to show us all around, and that meant riding to the tops of Chamsossiere (6,000-plus feet), Ponte de Nyon (6,060 feet), and over to Les Gets—all of which took in vast snowfields, steeps and long, long, top-to-bottom cruising.

In sum, Morzine surprised me. I'd not known much about the place, but it proved welcoming, nourishing and lively. A two-day stay, however, permitted us merely to scratch the surface of its offerings.

Je reviendrai. If I can help it.