Info:      

Less Funky But Still Fun & Personality-Rich

by Mitch Kaplan
photos by Mitch Kaplan

I was lost in Winter Park, Colorado.

How could that be? I'd been here many times. I thought I knew my way around. And, really, when it comes to major ski destinations, Winter Park, always ranked among the simplest to navigate.

There was Mary Jane and Winter Park, the two major ski peaks, plus more remote skiing at Vasquez Ridge and Vasquez Cirque. There was the main base area, with a small coterie of shops, cafeteria and kids' center, plus one base building at Mary Jane, with a fine restaurant. And, there was town, a modest stretch of shops, eateries and lodgings along U.S. Route 40.

But, here I stood in front of Fraser Crossing, one of the condo-hotels that have risen at the resort's base, and I couldn't orient myself to save myself.

One of my favorite ski areas has become a ski resort.

Something Old But Something New                          

Yes, as a ski destination, Winter Park is changing. Oh, most of the elements that have been Winter Park hallmarks and comprised its strengths remain:

• a fantastic kids’ center and children’s programming
• classic B&B and ski lodge properties scatter around town
• a ski hill that never quits entertaining
• a happily distinctive collection of affordable restaurants and lodging
• a down-to-earth feel
• a high-elevation setting that receives a ton of snow.

But, here now is a full-blown village at the Winter Park base. In it are high-end lodging, some interesting dining, places to gather and shop, and more user-friendly access to the slopes.

In many ways, that’s a good thing.

You can lodge in spacious condo-style rooms at places like Fraser Crossing and Founders Pointe, replete with all the amenities from wi-fi to hot tubs. You can access the lifts from your room by foot, cabriolet lift or, if you’re coming from/going to town, conveniently located, free and frequent bus service.

But, I wondered, have we lost Winter Park's semi-funky, it's-all-good local flavor?

• Just Because I’m Three introduces three year-olds to equipment and to the basics, then awards them a "graduation" certificate and promotes them to the more advanced program for three and four year-olds.
• Willie’s Birthday Party, in which Winter Park Willie, the resort’s moose mascot, hosts a three-hour private lesson for up to seven people that includes lunch, cake, and presents delivery plus a gift from Willie for all participants.
• Kids’ Night Out, while not new to ski resorts, adds an extra dimension to the already excellent Winter Park family activity menu.
• Expanded apres-ski activities like nighttime snow cycle excursions, 6-9 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays.

But, let us not forget that some are too young to ski. Willie’s Child Care accepts tykes from age two months to six years and treats them like royalty. And, for parents who worry—a complimentary beeper/pager is included.

Adult School Included                       

For adults, too, an innovative approach to teaching separates The Park from other destinations.

I like Super Parallel. A cool concept developed for intermediate-level adults, it uses unique short skis (150 cm) to let you quickly understand how to center yourself and effectively carve parallel turns.

And, the specialty clinics cover almost any advanced skier/riders's wish list:

• Mary Jane Bump Jamboree
• Mogul Camps
• Tele-Daze for telemarkers
• Steep & Deep Camp
• Women's programs.

Terrain for All                   

Still, we grown-ups mostly don't take lessons. We mostly just ski. And we want to ski on the kinds of trails and terrain we like.

No problem. The Park is large and readily supplies huge terrain for all.

Miles of blue-rated trails include a collection of runs with <i>Alice in Wonderland</I> names (Jabberwocky, White Rabbit, March Hare, Cheshire Cat, etc.) that afford fine cruising.

I’ve spent much time on a blue-rated highway called Cranmer because of the nifty mini-moguls field along its right side, a perfect place for mogul practice. Meanwhile, non-bumpster friends or spouses can cruise alongside on the groomed.

I’ve also spent much time on Mary Jane’s legendary bumps, dashing through Parsenn Bowl’s open spaces, and darting through the tree routes stashed all over the place.

What’s not to like here? There’s terrain that’s killer for anyone.

And, of course, for those who must, the terrain parks and halfpipe run the gamut from cute to terrifying.

Food & Other Fun                    

Every mom will tell you that the key to a great day is a great breakfast. So, sonny, you shouldn't miss the <i>First Tracks Breakfast</I>. The table's set at the Lodge at Sunspot. For about thirty bucks, you hop on the lifts half an hour before everyone else, ski/ride untracked corduroy or powder until about 9:30, and then chow down on a serious mountaintop breakfast buffet.

The expanded base village features eateries like the Cheeky Monk, a café serving 34 Belgian beers, 14 on draft and 20 in bottles; and Lime, which bills itself as "an American cantina."   

Over at Mary Jane, lunch in the Club Car is a must.

In town, the range of restaurants proves surprising. Such as?

• superb pizza at Heranado's
• delightful breakfasts/lunches at the Mountain Rose Café, described as "redneck fusion with a dash of hippie love"
• Smokin' Moe's Ribhouse & Saloon for steaks, ribs, etc.
• Fontenot's Seafood Grille, a Cajun-cooking "Bourbon Street café"
• Gasthaus Eichler Restaurant, for European cuisine and terrific fondue
• Rudi's Deli serves breakfast burritos, bagels and fabulous sandwiches for carnivores and herbivores
• Timberline Thai, a tiny, two-table spot in Fraser.

• terrain for everyone
• a straightforward atmosphere devoid of hoity-toidy, upscale snobbery
• true adventure skiing/riding for those who want it
• and some of the best children’s programs in skiing.